Category Archives: Gear

Fanatic Fly Race 14′ SUP review – Stand Up Padle Race Board

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It wasn’t easy to do, but I finally located a Fanatic 14′ Racer in southern California. I finally found it from the main distributor, Carl Cambilargiu at www.stokedSUP.com. Great guy, call him if you want one. Review Below…

I bought the board because I was looking for something faster than my C4 12’6″ switchblade. I read online that this is the fastest board around, I had to give it a shot.

I took it out on Carlsbad Lagoon, figured to go flat water before taking it into the ocean. It was very fast. It shaved about 1 minute off of my best mile that I ever did on the switchblade.

But where it really excelled was in the Ocean. It has the stability you need and speed to get through the chop. The front 12 inches of the nose stays out of the water, it really seems like it is there to spear through chop and waves. I managed to catch a couple of bumps (nothing too major) and this thing just flew down the line with ease.

My overall assessment is that I absolutely loved it. I do think that it is probably overkill if you are going all flat water though. Like I said above, it shaved a minute off of my flat water time, but I am not sure that would hold up over a 4-5 mile pace due to the extra weight this bigger board carries. If you are going to be in the ocean for the most part, I couldn’t think of a better board to own.

Information from the manufacturer:

In the booming SUP racing scene, a 14´0’’ Race board is the ultimate weapon for glory. Fanatic introduced a completely new design in the 14´0’’ Class to achieve that goal. A long stretched outline combined with a new bow design that cuts and recovers with ease through both choppy seas or flat water. A subtle curved scoop rocker line delivers free glide and clean flow, balancing ease of use with top performance in one package. Adapting itself to the conditions, the new 14’0” is made to win! Available in exclusive Carbon Sandwich and Wood Sandwich technology.

Features:

  • Stretched Outline with stabilizing square tail
  • Long waterline
  • Smooth overall rocker for clean water release in paddle motion and allowing for some
  • Domed nose with slight reverse bow, for quick nose recovery and water dispersal
  • Flat angled deck shape for secured stance and water release
  • Sharp water-cutting Bow, transforming into a slight rounded V towards the tail.
  • CAD analyzed surfaces and curve flow.

Measurements:

  • Volume: 320l
  • Width: 28” / 71,1cm
  • Length: 14´0”/426,7cm

 

SUP Speed Test – Fastest Paddle Boards on the Market

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I found this online from StandupZone.com. Really good article that I recommend you check out, here is the summary of their speed test.

It was a 1/3 mile test, flat water, half the way was downwind half the way was up wind. They used 6 riders of equal weight and experience.

They Used 6 Boards for the test (All stock models):
Fanatic Fly Race Carbon 27” – 12kg
Fanatic Fly Race Carbon 30” – 13kg
Naish Glide Carbon 30” – 14kg
Naish Javelin Carbon 28” – 13kg
Coreban Alpha Race Carbon 29” – 10kg
Starboard Race Carbon 27.5” – 12kg
Starboard Race AST 31.5” – 17kg
Starboard New/Ace AST 25.5” – 16kg

Here is the results (in order of fastest)
Fanatic 27
Naish Javelin 28
SB/Race 27
Fanatic 30
Naish 30
Starboard 25 (AST)
Starboard Race 31 (AST)
Coreban 29

What I thought was really interesting is that in many cases, there was a 20 second difference in boards for a rider. That would shave off a full minute per mile, on a 4+ mile race, that is a world of difference.

I have heard an awful lot that “Its the rider not the board” and while peak physical performance is key, a quicker board is what could make the difference.

C4 Switchblade Review – SUP Touring / Race Board

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I bought this board new from Legends in Carlsbad. To start off, it is a great looking board:

I bought it as my first quasi-race board to get me through the winter. And while it is not the fastest board on the market, it is a really good intro into racing/touring. Its not to say you cant race and win with this board, depending on your skill level and weight, it could be great, but for me, at 205 pounds, it was a better touring board than anything.

It is a very technical board, and I found that with side waves/chop it was hard to stabilize (and I would consider myself an advanced paddle-boarder).

It was really amazing in catching bumps and downwind.

I would recommend this board to an intermediate+ paddle boarder less than 210 pounds who wants a good combo of a touring and race board. If you want a pure speed board, this would not be the board for you.

The Specs:

Specifications:
Length: 12′6″
Width: 28.2″
Thickness: 5.85″
Tail Shape: Area Pin
Bottom: ‘V2R2V’ (Vee-to-Round-to-Vee)
Fin: Single 10″ box
Construction: TEC (Thermal Epoxy Compression)

Here is a Video on in in action:

 

Bill’s New Paddle Edging How-to!

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Once again, this is from Bill at Ke Nalu, and it’s as awesome a post as yesterday’s installment from him.  This one shows a new twist on paddle edging.  I like it.  And I will do it.  As soon as I find some hockey tape.

The Blade: There are three good reasons for guarding the blade. First, people have been badly cut with unguarded blades. Second, the blade can chip up your board. And third, the blade can be damaged by hitting it’s edge on hard stuff.   

Door edging or commercial blade guard works nicely, but it’s a bit thick for my taste. Mastic tape is good, but it’s fragile, especially if you stretch it thin. What I do is put on a layer of mastic, stretched very tight to make it thin, and then cover it with hockey tape. Finally I add a layer of wax to protect the tape and rub it with a cloth to smooth it. You’d be surprised at the difference in abrasion resistance between waxed and unwaxed fabric tape. The end result is a thin protective edging that won’t mark your board, lasts a very long time, and looks great.

Prepping a Paddle | Ke Nalu

How to Prep a SUP Paddle!

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This is an awesome post from Bill at Ke Nalu, about how to prep the grip area on your paddle.  I haven’t done it like this but I’m going to.  It sounds perfect.

Few things in SUP cause more controversy than paddle prep. Some folks like their shaft bare, some like padded shafts, some like wax, some like mastic tape. I’ve played with about every combination and I’ve hit on the perfect preparation for me. I suspect you’ll like it too, even if you’re a bare shaft fan.

I say that because I’m a bare shaft guy. I don’t mind a little wax, but I don’t like the shaft to be too sticky, and I don’t like it being larger, or having a soft grip. Nothing saps my hand strength faster than a soft grip.

But I also don’t like my hands to slip, and the least bit of sunblock or oil on my hands or the shaft and my paddling is compromised. Yes, I clean my hands with sand and give the shaft a scrub, but you can transfer goop from other places easily. This approach solves the problem, giving positive traction without softening or thickening the grip. Once it’s done it lasts for many months–you never have to rewax.

Continue reading “How to Prep a SUP Paddle!” »

Your SUP Paddle Is Probably *TOO* Long!

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The final bit of D. Parmenter wisdom is about paddle length.  He’s got an interesting perspective but don’t take it as gospel.  Lots of people think just a little bit longer is a whole lot mo’ better. 

Wherever we go in the world, the most common sight we see is people using paddles that are way too tall for them. From San-O to Sydney, all too many SUB paddlers are reaching over their heads like children straining to reach the cookie jar atop the ‘fridge.
       Aside from squandering the mechanical advantage of the proper and efficient paddle stroke, using too tall a paddle sets you up for some sort of repetitive stress harm to your shoulders.image
       While a general guideline states that the paddle should extend 5 or 6 inches over your head, some variability exists due to the thickness of your board, slight differences in paddling styles, and even the shape and angle of the paddle blade.
       Try standing on a bench with your paddle and take a few pantomime strokes; this way you can simulate the blade depth of your stroke and lets you see how high the top of the paddle goes overhead. Your top hand should be at the height of your forehead and nose when you push into your stroke. Any higher or lower and you will be suffering a power loss.
       Additionally, adjustable paddles, on which you can readily change the length of the paddle shaft, are great tools you can employ to zero in on the optimum paddle size for your board and style.

Stand Up Paddle Surfing Equipment by C4 Waterman | SUP Read Me | Paddle, Board,       , Standup, Sub

What’s the BEST SUP Board to Learn on?

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More words of wisdom from C4′s D. Parmenter (and another trick question, too):

What’s the Best SUB On Which To Learn — A Long Single-fin r a wide quad-fin or a short tri-fin, etc?
      Actually, the best board on which to learn is a borrowed board. By all means, learn on the biggest board you can find, but before committing to a purchase go out and demo everything you can get your hands on. image
       If you can master the basics before you buy your own board, you will be more likely to end up with an SUB size and shape that won‘t hold you back when you begin to progress.
        Purchase an SUB with an eye on where your skill level will be two or three months from now——–not for the first few days when you are wobbling over the waters of your local inlet or lake.
       After all, there’s nothing worse than finally learning to crank a snapback while leaning on your blade, only to realize to do so on your 12’-plus leviathan will require a truss and two tugboats.

Stand Up Paddle Surfing Equipment by C4 Waterman | SUP Read Me | Paddle, Board,       , Standup, Sub

Are Wider SUP Board Better?

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Trick question, to which the quick answer is, "No," at least in the eyes of C4′s Dave Parmenter, who as one of surfing’s greats should know.  Here’s what he had to say during a recent discussion of some of SUP’s most widely held misconceptions:

      Simply put, excessive width is the poor man’s solution to stability.
       There are other ways to grant considerable stability to an SUB. When the outline, rail volume, bottom contour, rocker, and rail shape are put together in the proper image

configuration, an SUB can be amazingly stable even at 27” or 28” wide. And get this: All those boards you see in the racks with overly soft, round rails? Well, they can subtract 1 or 2 inches from a board’s stability quotient——one more reason why SUB widths are relative.
       A narrower plan shape with a perfectly balanced set of design components will paddle straighter and easier and, of course, perform much more like a conventional high-performance surfboard.

Continue reading “Are Wider SUP Board Better?” »

Getting a Grip on Your Board!

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Here’s an idea from PonoBill about holding onto your board in the soup.  I used to use a small piece of knotted rope but broke two fingers when they got caught inside  the loop.  Think I’ll give Bill’s idea a go next.  If any one here tries it, please feel free to report back in the comments section!

Q: I ride the 9’8" starboard sportech fish which has 2 x leash plugs installed. I have just fixed an old ankle strap tight onto  the unused plug for hanging onto when getting battered by the whitewater or, if your leash snaps.  I hope to
go in later this afternoon as it is small and glassy today. Has anyone else rigged up something similar?

Ponobill’s A: Yes, but here’s another idea. First of all, loop a piece of good line (like windsurfer downhaul line) through both plugs and connect your leash to that. In the unlikely event that you pull one leash plug out, the other should hold. A well installed leash plug is mighty stout, but stuff happens. If nothing else this distributes the pull to both plugs and reduces the likelihood of failure.
Don’t use a loop for the handle–you don’t want your hand caught. I used a piece of strap cut from a bad tiedown. I doubled it, passed it through the leash rope and then passed the strap through the doubled loop. I tied an overhand knot about ten inches from the rope, and then tied overhand knots in each of the ends. If you make even a flailing grab at this handle you’re likely to get enough purchase to slow the board before the wave rips it out of your hands. That’s often enough to keep it out of the pocket and get it onto the back of the wave. In most cases you’ll be able to hang on to the board. It’s really great when you’re getting pasted by head high whitewater, because you can breathe most of the time.
When I first did this I thought I made it too long, but it’s really good. this picture shows the ends without the overhand knots. they come out sometimes during the course of a day’s surfing. But you get the idea. Long is good. At this length the strap has no effect I can determine on how the board feels. Possibly a great surfer would feel it, but that ain’t me.

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