On the Zone, a newcomer recently wanted to know about keeping your balance when a swell pushes up behind you as you’re trying to catch a wave. There are lots of good answers in the thread (see link!) but my fav so far is the shortest, from River. It’s incredibly important and so simple it’s often overlooked. Don’t be one of those guys. Do what River says!
TiltPilot: Here is my problem: when I’m pushed by the wave (when I’m used to being prone and paddling like hell with my arms) i fall backwards!! I’m just not used t the forward acceleration while standing. I have a hard time dealing with waves from the back too.
like when i was paddling back from well beyond the lineup (just goofing off). I was knocked off two or three times by swells from the back (as I’m paddling into the beach). did fine going into the wave standing up (getting out of the impact zone) after a ride towards the end. I tried setting my feet to a surf stance sooner as I’m catching a wave and getting lower sooner (I was getting tire by the time I started this). any other suggestions out there?
River: My one word on advice is BEND YOUR KNEES:)