Here’s another answer to the question first posed in yesterday’s post: how to handle yourself when paddling for a wave and you feel it coming up underneath you and is about to throw you off balance. Joelcr, at the Zone, knows what he’s talking about:
When you are paddling for the wave, and you start to feel it push you forward, you actually want your weight more on your front foot, not your back foot. Leaning forward this way will help you catch the wave, without falling 
backwards. But as you reach the bottom of the wave you must shift your weight to your back foot to keep from pearling. This allows you to unweigh the front of the board, and set-up a heel or toe side bottom turn. Using your paddle as a pivot then helps too!